Once the fundamentals are in place, laying a VCT or vinyl tile floor yourself is relatively simple. Knee pads, a tape measure, a chalk line, a pencil, an aluminum knife with spare blades, a small propane torch, and, depending on the size of the area, a dolly to transport boxes of tile along with you as you install them are all necessary supplies. It quickly becomes a bother to lug heavy tile boxes on the floor. After the old flooring has been removed, any damaged areas have been mended, and the room has been thoroughly swept and vacuumed, the tile installation may begin.
Typically, a row of tiles should be centered just within the doorway. The tile might have to be centered on the room if you’re creating a creative pattern. If all tiles have the same hue, they should be evenly spaced around the entranceway. First, measure the width or length of the room from the center of the door and mark it with a chalk line.
Pre-mixed vinyl cement comes in one-gallon cans and is used to adhere vinyl composition tile (VCT) or vinyl tiles to a surface. Spread the adhesive throughout the floor in even strokes using a notched steel trowel of a quarter-inch width. Keep the chalk in the middle of the field. It will take around half an hour for the adhesive to fully dry. Tiles should be laid following the chalk line and as far as they can be reached without touching the adhesive, beginning at the doorway. As it expands, you’ll have more room to walk around on the newly tiled floor. Step back and install the chopped pieces after all the full ones are in place.
It’s not hard to cut the tile. The skill of tile cutting can be picked quite rapidly. Tiles are much simpler to miss if you first slightly heat them after determining the shape of the cut and marking the tile. Because of how readily they burn and melt, you’ll quickly learn not to overheat the tile. The most convenient kind of torch is a little propane that lights itself. You can burn and promptly put it out with only one trigger pull.
Invest in a high-quality aluminum knife with a blade-changing mechanism. There will be a lot of blade changes, and you shouldn’t have to resort to a screwdriver every time. You can save much money by purchasing your blades in the 100-count dispenser.
Heavy foot traffic or placing furniture on the new tile should wait at least twenty-four hours for the adhesive to be fully set. Apply a thick coat of wax within a week or two to safeguard the surface.
Finally, a word of warning. You should check the tile’s orientation before putting it in. Each tile may include a hidden directional arrow on the back. When arranging the tiles in a room, you can either align all the indicators to face the same direction or deliberately switch your hands around to make a pattern. Keep to the initial plan you establish for the floor if you want the ultimate product to look polished and expert.
If you are unsure whether or not you need a permit for your cosmetic finishing work, you should phone your local building department to find out. Simple and quick.
Pete, the Building Inspector Who Cares http://www.Wagsys.com
Software for Building Inspection and Code Enforcement (BICES)
Pete has been working as a building inspector in the public and private sectors for over 30 years. He has experience in both the office of building design and the field of construction in the Eastern United States, having worked on a wide range of projects from schools to treatment plants, individual residences, and condo projects to major residential landscaping projects. Together with two other building inspectors, he established Wagsys LLC in 2006. The company develops and sells software for city departments, such as building inspection, planning, and zoning.
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